SURFER has affiliate partnerships so we may receive compensation for some links to products and services. Hollister Ranch Sues State Over New Public Access Law, Revisiting Kelly Slater’s All-Time Soup Bowl Score From “Campaign 2”, Jon Wayne Freeman Takes His Quest for Old Guy Airs to Lower Trestles, New 5-Acre Wave Pool Proposed For West Side of Oahu, Sophie Goldschmidt Steps Down as CEO of WSL, Dylan Graves and Dane Gudauskas Rip a Man-Made Wedge on an Artificial Isle in Nigeria, Wanna Shape Your Own Board? We knew who they were and we knew when it was people who didn’t belong there. Go on waves you didn’t want and everything. "It's kind of a shit show, to be honest with you, but I'm excited. Zach's Decent Wave at KS Wave Co . Everybody had respect. It came to be called “Lopez State Park.” There’d just be guys trying to live there ‘cause it was right at the beach. I always thought that it was weird that you’d spend all this money on a house and you let in the unwashed masses. The judging panel will select each month's top rides and they will collectively be deemed the finalists for the grand prize - $25,000 to the surfer and $5,000 to the videographer who captures the winning wave.This year's event will be bigger and better than ever, with the introduction of the O'Neill Breakthrough Performer Award; an all-new division running in concert with the O'Neill Wave of the Winter and the Clif Bar Overall Performance Award. We were totally hands-on. That was partly because of tradition, partly because Sunset is itself a phenomenal wave and partly because, back then, few surfers had actually figured out how to surf Pipe and survive. Sometimes, if you got a really good wave and Bruce was out of town—he slept on the top floor of the Volcom place—they might let you sleep on the floor of Bruce’s room for a night. Billy Kemper is calling this cavernous monster the wave of his life, The latest escalation in the decades-old dispute over access to the exclusive coast, Channel Islands, …Lost and Firewire now offer mid-length models for mass consumption, Revisiting the mythical MLK Day swell from 7 years ago today, Slater’s ridiculous session in Barbados might never be topped. LOPEZ: I don’t remember what year it was, but they had the NFL Pro Bowl in Hawaii and a bunch of the pro football players somehow heard about my place and showed up, kind of broke down a gate and were just hanging out there. I’d drive up and park outside the lot Mark Healey describes one of the best waves he's ever surfed at Pipeline. Practically a pantheon for surfing's elite, Pipe has a heritage all its own. It became a big hangout, I guess. That’s when you got local guys Kaiborg Garcia and Tai Van Dyke as house managers. HERBIE FLETCHER: In the days before the house went up, most of the lot was just a big grass lawn with a picnic table on it. Subscribe to Is This The Best Jaws Barrel Ever Ridden? The boys. ), Decade ends with solid swell at Pipe -- and more O'Neill Wave of the Winter entries, Last year's WOTW finalist repeats Backdoor Shootout perfect ride -- one year and two days later, A half-hour featuring the best 200 rides of the season from the North Shore, Featuring Jamie O'Brien, Torrey Meister, Mikey Bruneau, Koa Smith, Koa Rothman and more, Featuring -- surprise! Eventually I’d allow my friends in and they’d kind of protect the place, watch over it. Photo by Ryan Craig. Epic Pipeline … We had a little house down the beach from the Pipeline. Back when I lived a couple houses down from Pipe, I remember hearing gunshots one day and I went over to see what was going on in the yard and Spyder Wills [filmmaker] was shooting a gun. Built the biggest house we could on that lot, as high as we could. There were guys that might’ve been there for decades that the new generation of regulators might not have recognized. Photo by Tom Servais, The original Pipeline Master, Gerry Lopez, setting up for one of the innumerable tube rides he had at Pipe while living front row. Browse more videos. I’d come in from a session and there’d be all my heroes and the big gnarly guys and the whole deal hanging out in the yard there. 0:51. HEALEY: It improved my surf ability just being there. DIVINE: If you lived right there at Pipe, you’d see all these variations of swell and direction that have nothing to do with the famous Pipeline look people are used to. Being around that environment, having the opportunity to literally have a bed that looks in the barrel of Pipeline. The toilet’s overflowing.” The guy looks at me says, “Drop and give me 50.” The whole party stopped and counted me off doing 50 push-ups. Well, he could afford $500 per month, but after five years, he couldn’t pay off the rest. LOPEZ: In 1975, a friend of mine named Paul Peterson ended up buying that property in an arrangement that was common on the North Shore at the time. We’d just look into the barrel at Pipe all the time. I wanted to figure out how to surf there so I’d park my bike next to Gerry’s place. All the big heavies, the Kealohas and Fosters and all these guys either retired or died or moved away. Don’t fuck up. Basically, first time there I was just in awe. There would be, like, 15 guys staying in the original Volcom house, but there were only, like, six people staying in the Gerry House. Or the opposite, like on an approaching hurricane. I’d tried to sell it years before to the Quiksilver guys, but they didn’t want it. Playing next. Gerry and Rory Russell and all those guys would just be hanging out on a bench that was at the very front of the big lawn right on the ocean before the house was built. LOPEZ: Porter and I built the house together. Jesse Johnson, making the grade. Weird. Photo by Ryan Craig, An orchestra of early-’80s surf icons assembled for an Astrodeck photoshoot, with none other than legendary Hawaiian surfer Buttons Kaluhiokalani acting as conductor up front. It was definitely fast and loose and very wild there back then. ALEX GRAY: (California-Based Pro and Former Volcom Team Rider): I was 15 when I first stayed at the original Volcom House [a smaller place next door to Gerry’s House] and you had to earn your way into that Gerry House. You had to really know who was who, because if you took off on a wave and opened up your mouth, you were going to walk back into that house later and get slapped. FLETCHER: I first started going to the North Shore in ’65 and moved in with Gary Chapman in ’67. “You don’t get many chances to catch a wave like that at Pipe — the way it lined up within the chaos and being in the right spot is pretty special.”, Was it the O’Neill Wave of the Winter? He paid $500 per month, and then after 5 years he was supposed to pay the balance on the property, which was $30,000. I mean, I didn’t like big scenes. You really had to earn your spot. Before the house was built, the lot it stands on was dotted with coconut trees and a couple small cottages taking up a tiny part of the grassy lawn above the bluff. I’ve seen ’em, but never had one myself. Once I started pumping, I saw the boil ahead of me so I knew I was way back on the reef. This unique category celebrates the accomplishments of the surfer, 19 years old or younger, who rises above all others in his/her age group with sustained, standout performances on the Seven Mile Miracle from November through February. Just to walk through the gate you had to be invited. GAVIN BESCHEN: (North Shore Standout and Volcom Team Rider): I don’t even remember my first time there, I just remember you had to earn being at that house. Charging with your head down is, I guess, a passive way of just being like, “Hey, I’m here. I found a bathroom, took a piss and the toilet just started overflowing everywhere. We would sit there at the house and see every single surfer on every single day that would go out to Pipeline. Nobody could just show up. For Mark Healey, these are all the ingredients of a good time. Until the late ‘60s, that distinction belonged to the big, warbly peaks of Sunset Beach, just a short drive northeast up the Kam Highway. It’s like a six million dollar house with no garage. Lopez, me, Fat Paul [Peterson], Wiley Artman and a bunch of guys most people have never heard of, some of them are dead. Your information has been successfully processed! I was living on Maui at the time, and it was better there. It was just sort of a thing that had gone by, you know? That would have been 1979 or 1980. LOPEZ: Eventually all the surf companies bought places on the beach on the North Shore. They should have bought it. I wanted to figure out how to surf there so I’d park my bike next to Gerry’s place. It went through a 10-year era of being fear-regulated. ask if he wanted to go surfing. The drains never really worked right on that lot, stuff ’s always overflowing. I wouldn’t even have tried. It’s equally hard to imagine the beachfront at Pipe during a roaring swell as a sleepy stretch of rural coastline without the throngs of tourists, long lens cameras and food trucks selling acai bowls by the metric ton. The 5 Most Influential Airs of the Decade, The 5 Most Pivotal Moments of the Decade in Big-Wave Surfing, Kerby Brown Defies Death at This Demented-Looking Left. But you go down there now, and guys are checking the waves with their baby strapped to their chest and there are You had to get the respect of your peers and you had to learn your history. Those guys that hung out at the early Pipe house had names for all those conditions. To maybe get lucky enough to share a beer with one of them on the splintered wooden deck of a surf team house. Most of the time everybody there were my friends and it was great, but as the Pipeline got more popular it became more like, “Who are these people?”. I mean, guys surfed there, but Sunset was the place. DIVINE: You know what’s weird? It’s kind of a tier. When Second Reef is breaking, a lot of times you’re sitting outside Off-the-Wall. You could earn your way into that house if you charged hard enough. I didn’t actually ask them to watch anything. So it was just a place for me to go when the surf was good, or to visit in the summertime. Report. And there’s another zone just inside that peak, and if you get one that lines up from way back there, you can come into First Reef at full speed. That was the way I showed my appreciation and my respect. DIVINE: I think they had to clamp down on some of the more aggressive stuff going on at the house when Volcom took over. 0:57. A very solid NW swell had giant waves breaking on bits of outer reef that kept the pack on its toes, getting rag-dolled under the water and through the infamous spin cycle. Photo by Grant Ellis, The greatest view on the North Shore. And so we’d take boxing gloves and we’d box out in the front yard in between surf sessions. The heavies. A warm welcome from the king of the Pipeline castle, Mr. Gerry Lopez. But until the surf industry descended upon the place in a feverish horde, that’s exactly how it was: families living quiet lives on the beach, Honolulu residents gone country for the weekends at their quiet beachside rentals. It could’ve been done better. You’re not gonna want to look any of these guys in the face. 10 of 19. Where does it sit? DIVINE: I didn’t really hang out at the house that much. Subscribe to our free newsletter and stay up-to-date with the latest from It was always something that I wanted to achieve riding for that brand. When I bought into the Pipe house after having kids and everything—I invested in the place back in ’81—that was a dream come true because we were right in front of the Pipeline, and could just go out and go surfing whenever it started to work. MARK HEALEY: (Big-Wave Surfer and Pipe Standout): I first started surfing Pipe when I was about 12 years old. They need to be locals to have the control and respect. Mark Healey Wave of the Winter Entry 163 from Pipeline shot by Bombomproducoes on February 2nd, 2016. If you’ve spent any time there at all, it may be difficult to imagine, but Pipeline wasn’t always the spotlight-illuminated headliner on surfing’s main stage: the North Shore of Oahu. ... 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